Sustainable development of tourism in Tajikistan and globally

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure to speak at an online conference regarding tourism development and education in Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Online, because of corona of course. The global challenges that the industry faces do also propose a challenge for Central Asia. I have tried to shed my light on some of the challenges ahead, after a year long process of trying to redevelop the tourism curriculum for local Tajik universities, especially the Institute of tourism, entrepreneurship and service of Tajikistan.

In 2011 I first came to Tajikistan. Before I came, I had to find out, on a map, where it was. Although I had been in Iran regularly and in some other former Soviet countries, Tajikistan was a big unknown to me. In my view, that was a wonderful challenge. I got to work as an “expert contemporary tourism experiences” for a year through VSO, a volunteer organization. During that year I would be affiliated with the Institute of Entrepreneurship and Service of Tajikistan in the capital Dushanbe.

After arriving, a VSO colleague asked me how many lessons I thought I would give. “Classes?” I thought, “is that what I’m here for?” I was and am not an educator, but rather someone who can share experiences, tried and tested by tourist practice. At that time I saw myself much more as someone who could open the windows and let in the 21st century.
I stayed for thirteen months. A time in which I gave few lessons, but was able to do a lot. For example, together with a colleague, I managed to train a group of students to become Dushanbe City Guides. Not that many tourists came to the capital, but there were (and are!) always foreTheo op TV in TJigners, often people working in Tajikistan, who appreciate an introduction to the capital city. The Facebook page of this group of students still exists, and there are still people who want to be added to it. It should be easy to breathe new life into this 2012 initiative, and to make it into a money maker, in the form of free walking tours. There should only be an enterprising man or woman who sees something in it. But that spirit, I saw some time ago, is lacking.
About a year ago, I was approached again by the Institute. I had had many wonderful adventures and had meanwhile landed as a tourism lecturer at the Breda University of applied sciences in my home country of the Netherlands. Again, not that I see myself as a teacher, but I find the combination of sharing knowledge with young people and “getting your feet dirty” in tourism practice is an attractive combination. That I partly owe my appointment in Breda to my experiences in Tajikistan is of course a great coincidence. To me, the request to participate as a consultant in this project is a big honour. And although my employer, BUas, could not be officially involved in this project, I was of course able to bring my experiences to Dushanbe.
One of the things I’ve seen in Breda is that as an educational organisation you have to be at the heart of society. Our students have contacts with the professional field at various times and tourism professionals, entrepreneurs, are often practically involved in our educational programs. Our students are, as it were, being trained to become entrepreneurs. At the beginning of this academic year I was involved as a teacher in the “module” Introduction Tourism, the first introduction to our new first year students, fresh from their previous education, with tourism. Tourism as an industry, as a field of activity, but above all as a challenge. I greeted these new freshmen with the announcement that they had made a terrible choice. “Tourism is destroying the world. All that flying, all those people, overtourism”. But, I immediately added: “Fortunately you, the new generation of tourism professionals, are here to come up with innovative solutions to help our beautiful industry emerge stronger from these challenges – and save the planet in the meantime.” Students often looked a bit shocked. Maybe, because they are already being called tourism professionals, but my words to them bear some truth. In this current corona crisis, which has unfortunately now also reached Tajikistan, innovative solutions to keep tourism going will also have to be found. Travel is currently thought to be a big reason for the spreading of the virus. Our students are challenged on many fronts to come up with solutions to tackle not only overtourism and the cultural and natural pollution that tourism brings, – the disruptive sides of the industry are being highlighted more now because of the calmness in our cities and tourist attractions, so we can clearly see what horrors mass tourism causes – , but certainly also to shape travel for a time after the corona virus. It is significant that UNWTO has launched a “competition” for the best innovations to emerge from this era. After all, the best ideas often arise in times of crisis. And the students from Breda, and my colleagues, work hard and eagerly on this.

When I asked in Dushanbe about a year ago to speak to some tour operators, because I believe a curriculum has to offer what the industry demands, a kind of conference was promptly organized. That was not my intention, but it was interesting. What stuck with me the most from that afternoon is the sigh of a local tourism entrepreneur telling me he could earn so little from tourists, because nowadays they could arrange so much on the internet. For me, the defeatist sound of his words said the opposite of what you would expect from an entrepreneur: “shrug your shoulders! If what I offer is not what people are looking for, I’ll do other things and I will innovate”. After all, that is the crux of doing business: innovating and thus serving the market, instead of sadly observing that the market has changed.
An observation was made by the director of the Academy of Tourism of Breda University during the visit of a Tajik delegation, a few weeks ago, just before the Corona crisis really started to spread. He noted, hearing the stories, that there is a particular need for entrepreneurial skills and education in those skills in Tajikistan. Like that, the Tajik industry and entrepreneurs will be able to come up with solutions to keep the tourism industry ready for the future, in a continuously changing world, which always offers new and unexpected challenges, which in turn require an innovative spirit. And, he noted, Breda University will be happy to see whether and how it can offer a helping hand.
If one thing has become clear to me after 20 years in the tourism industry, it is that theory is beautiful. Beautiful, and patient. But what really matters in tourism are skills. Entrepreneurial skills, social skills. And you learn them mainly in practice. By giving the students the floor in a flip the classroom setting in order to come up with innovative solutions to the problems of entrepreneurs. By having students do business. By daring to fail, because you learn a lot from that. But also by honestly concluding that the theory and approach at the institute no longer train for what the global tourism industry needs today.

It is a good idea to think about how we can re-train and educate tourism educators. The number of contact hours in the classroom can drop significantly, to give space to new methods, such as a tourism impact lab. Because gaining skills, by working together and co-creating, leads to a new generation of young people who can renew the tourism industry in Tajikistan in their own way. Entrepreneurial people who see opportunities, not threats.
It is recommendable that ‘you people’ no longer look inside. The history of Tajikistan is beautiful, but if I have to guide someone or a group through Tajikistan as a guide, I can prepare myself for that. Because I learned how to do that and I gained the intercultural skills to guide a group of people from different cultures. After all, tourism is not a Tajik industry, but a global industry.

I therefor think the title of this conference is too limited. Tourism education should train people to be ready for the global nature of the industry. This becomes clear once again now that the world is hit by a pandemic and we need to find worldwide solutions to renew and innovate our beautiful and valuable industry. So that, after this crisis, in a possible new reality, we can still work on offering the people of the world unforgettable experiences. Live, or virtual? Who knows. But it is our duty to make sure that our industry is ready. And an institute of tourism, entrepreneurship and service has, by the nature of it’s name, a vital role to play in making that happen, through modern and meaningful education.

Thank you.

1995: Ijsland en New York

In het voorjaar van 1995 ging ik als student geschiedenis aan de (toen nog) Katholieke Universiteit Nijmegen mee op een studiereis naar Ijsland en New York. Daarover schreef ik in oktober van dat jaar een verslag voor een bundel. Die bundel kwam ik pas geleden weer tegen. In een doos, die jarenlang op een zolder in Den Bosch gestaan heeft.

In deze tijd, waarin reizen even slechts in gedachten kan, wil ik dit verhaal graag delen. In min of meer originele vorm. Omdat ik goede herinneringen aan die reis bewaar.Reisbundel GSV 1: 1995img_3272img_3271

Why innovation matters

The world around is changing rapidly. Due to the tech-revolution, information has become much more easily accessible and the speed in the world around us seems much higher than only a few years ago. In the Middle East, the impact of this change may be double. Not only, because freedom of information is not always guaranteed, and internet speeds are often limited, but also because of the whole geo-political instability the region is suffering from. Instability and fast progress are not great friends. This means that a region in dire need of catching up with the future is instead slowly losing this battle – and it shouldn’t.

Especially in tourism, the changes have come quickly. The internet has not only changed the amount of information people can process, but has also created a much more individually shaped market – people can now easily book flights and accommodation by themselves. The instability in the region has halted big package group tourism, but individual adventure tourism is still viable and those tourists are still interested to come to the region. However, they need to be catered for. But since innovation means change and requires a different way of working and thinking, we see that the region is only adapting slowly to the new realities. Because, in this region, innovation and progress are often halted by stifling bureaucracy, slow systems and a fear of change – people did never learn to think ‘out of the box’, and shaking up ‘the system’ is in general frowned upon here, in the Middle East.

This means, that the region, and especially the all-important tourism industry, is hit double by the geo-political crisis: not only does this crisis mean less visitors, but catering to the new markets that are still willing to come proves a challenge, since change, innovation in the market, is seen as a challenge.

Therefore it is imperative to re-focus on change-management and lateral thinking. Get rid of the rules and focus on what is really needed. Because without that, the biggest industry in countries like Jordan and Egypt will not be able to reach new highs, and that may, in the not so distant future, lead to further destabilisation of  the Middle East.

After Tajikistan, back to Iran

I’ve not been blogging for quite a while, I know. During my time in Tajikistan my boss thought it might be politically dangerous to do so, and so I did not post a lot while being there. She asked people who wanted to blog to show it to her, so she could ‘correct’ mistakes, or even veto publication. Unacceptable of course. On twitter and facebook, however, I have kept my followers up to date and have published anyway. One time, I received a message that ‘some things were not for tweeting’, but that’s it.

And so, although there are many reasons to doubt the effectiveness of humanitarian aid in Tajikistan – as is the case in many other countries! – I have never published anything about the corruption or other negative aspects of my work there. Because sometimes, I (and not only I!) was wondering how on earth tourism could help to create a sustainable livelyhood for the people I was working with. I still have my doubts, but on the other hand I am sure that I have been able to change lives: by talking to students and teacher, by teaching, by establishing links and by sending a couple of them to the United States of America. A trip of a lifetime!

Now, back in The Netherlands, I am still trying to find a meaningful ‘job’, although of course I am rather busy with different things and projects. Apart from a non-descript part-time job to bring in some money, I am organising culinary tours to some of the countries I have lived and worked in before.

Because yes, there is wonderful food and wine in the Middle East. And yes, it is necessary to spread the word that that region has so much more to offer than mollah’s and molotov cocktails. When I hear in the news that the Canadians really thought that an Al Qaida attack was being plotted in their country from IRAN I am ready to start crying. Those people are supposed to know what they are talking about, but they do not seem to understand that Al Qaida is fiercely Sunni and the big majority, including the leadership, of Iran is Shia, und thus, unfortunately, not on very friendly terms. And so an Al Qaida-attack coming from that country is just, mmm…. highly unlikely.

“The world has become much more unsafe”, said the well-known journalist Paul Witteman in the very well known dutch tv-program Pauw en Witteman. Thank God for the historian Maarten van Rossem, who almost immediately reacted that that, according to statistics in just untrue. Well, said Witteman, I am talking about a ‘feeling’. And that, dear reader, is the problem. People have the feeling that the world is much more unsafe.

For a politician like George W. Bush, such feelings were very important. Without those feelings, ‘his’ citizens would never have agreed on waging war in Afghanistan and Iraq. And, because of those wars and all the reports coming from the region, people now still have the feeling that the world became much more unsafe. The civil conflict in Syria is another reason, and 100-something young, radical Dutch muslims who went there to fight and will probabely not come back adds to that feeling. But it is merely the amount of information that is available that creates the feeling. Mr. Van Rossem is probabely totally right: the world is not more unsafe, but because we here about everything so quickly through new, social and in many cases too fast media, people get the feeling that things are wrong.

Too fast? Yes, too fast. Publications on twitter and other social media have a tendency to be fast, and thus, not or not properly checked. Maybe slow is the message of the future. That will un-hype things and give a bigger sense of security. Because what we think, mr. Witteman, is certainly not what is the truth, and although you have the right to speak your mind, in this case it would have been really wise if you just, for once, would have checked the facts.

And so, I am going to Iran. A rather safe country. Yes, earthquakes. Yes, Tehran has crazy traffic. And yes, I do not really like many of the politicians from there. But you can walk the streets without fears, even if you are a ‘lone woman, people are extremely friendly, the architecture in cities like Esfahan is unparalleled and the food is wonderful. I will enjoy myself and hope that after this trip 15 more Dutchies will spread a message of tolerance and self-reflection.

Udaipur

De meest romantische stad van India heeft me te gast! Voor de tweede keer al, maar tijdens mijn eerste bezoek was ik zo druk dat erover bloggen er niet in zat. Dat doe ik dus nu maar, want Udaipur is een juweeltje. Een meer, dakterrassen, mooie hotels, leuke winkeltjes en diverse paleizen: ook de makers van Octopussy (een van de slechtste Bond-films) hadden ’t door: dit is bijzonder!
 
Voeg daarbij dat het weer heerlijk is en de keuken, als overal, prima, en u begrijpt dat ik deze blog kort houd. Ik ga weer naar buiten!

Marokko

Na een gezellige Mahieu-bijeenkomst gisteren, vooraf gegaan door een laatste blik op Joep te Den Bosch, reis ik over een half uurtje af naar Schiphol, onze nationale luchthaven, voor een vlucht via Casablanca naar Fès.
Mid-september zal ik weer in Nederland zijn…

gevaarlijk gebied

Eind deze maand reis ik weer af. Naar Bombay, het huidige Mumbai, dit maal. Daar blijf ik een weekje, wil eigenlijk ook nog richting Bangalore, maar weet niet of dat er in zit. Want op 5 juli word ik op Sri Lanka verwacht, om een groep en een inwerk-collega op te halen van Bandaranaike International Airport. Prima.
Wanneer je zo’n programma te volgen hebt, is nieuws van een busbom natuurlijk minder aangenaam. Maar: door mijn tegenwoordig grote bomervaring (ik maakte ze hier in Libanon alle 14 mee!) weet ik, dat zo’n krantenbericht de situatie vaak erger maakt dan die in werkelijkheid is. Een paar kilometer van zo’n bom merkt de bevolking er niets van, en hoewel het natuurlijk verschrikkelijk is dat er ruim 60 doden zijn te betreuren is de schade dus vrij ‘beperkt’.
 
En ik heb wel wat met spannende gebieden. Na Libanon, het net op tijd weg zijn na de bommen in Amman vorig jaar en (langer geleden) een tsunami is het aan het werk gaan in een land dat, erg genoeg weer, afglijdt naar een burgeroorlog weer een nieuw hoofdstuk in mijn enerverende beroep.
 
In oktober ga ik overigens naar Delhi, om daar drie weken een groep te doen. Helemaal nieuw, en daardoor natuurlijk extra uitdagend. Ben bang dat ik India leuk ga vinden. De cultuurschok zal wel wat minder zijn voor me, ik die al zoveel heb gezien aan bizarre en drukke dingen, en wat ik uit de reisgids lees spreekt me wel aan. Maar dus eerst Mumbai, waar ik op het hoogtepunt van de monsoon (moesson) aan schijn te gaan komen. ‘k Zal wel zien…

Jordanië – foto’s

Ik kreeg zojuist van Inge Kolstee uit Eindhoven enkele foto’s toegezonden die zij maakte tijdens onze recentelijke trip naar Jordanië. Zij was een groepslid, ik uiteraard, de baas.
En die Wadi Rum chauffeur kreeg inderdaad op zijn sodemieter. Het leek Libië wel. Lekke banden en te weinig brandstof. En dat in een paar uurtjes! Maar de Rum is prachtig, zoals ook duidelijk op de foto is te zien (als je ‘m tenminste iets groter bekijkt.)

leermoment?

Vandaag is de laatste dag van mijn gezelschap hier in Jordanië. Ze mogen tot drie uur vanmiddag op hun kamers blijven hier in Aqaba, begin van de avond eten we wat bij restaurant Floka, om de hoek bij het hotel, en dan rijden we om 19.30 uur naar de Koningin Alia-luchthaven.
Gelukkig maar. Prima groepje hoor, weinig mis mee, maar ze willen wel voor het spreekwoordelijke dubbeltje op de eerste rang zitten. Gisteren had ik ze met een mooie boot laten snorkelen, kreeg ik rond het middaguur een sms dat het "een aanfluiting" was, en dat het stel al weer terug was. Ik belde op (naar een Nederlands nummer, dus heel duur) en begaf me naar de haven, want een "aanfluiting" is niet de bedoeling natuurlijk.
Daar aangekomen was er niemand. Alleen bloedhete zon. En dus door naar het hotel. Daar kwam mijn gezelschap een uur na het sms dat ze al weer terug waren dan toch aan. Men vond de golven te hoog en de boot te druk. Verder was het eten minder goed dan bij een van de hele goede restaurants van Aqaba, waar ik eerder met ze was gaan eten.
Vervelend allemaal. Ik bedong een kleine korting en kreeg gisterennacht, op mijn eigen kamer notabene, waar ik met twee dames nog een glaasje araq dronk, het allemaal nog eens op mijn bord. Gelukkig gaf ik tegengas. En toen bleek het dus allemaal mee te vallen: het eten was eigenlijk heel goed, allerlei salades en lams- en kippenvlees, en neen, die bootsmensen konden ook niets doen aan de hoge golven en harde wind. Maar toch kon het voor mij misschien een "leermoment" zijn, zo zei de Eindhovense die het hardste had geroepen en een uur voor terugkeer al vertelde dat ze terug waren.
Dit zijn de momenten dat ik denk dat ik iets anders moet gaan doen. Mensen die onterecht ontevreden zijn zijn niet te helpen. Dat is wel jammer, maar vooral voor hen… 

Ongelofelijk heet in Aqaba…

Het is denk ik wel 45 graden hier in Zuid-Jordanië. Niet leuk meer. Ik moet zo de straat weer op maar eigenlijk is dat gekkenwerk…
Ik heb zowel van Gré die eigenlijk Corine heet als van mijn vader gehoord dat het spuugincident tussen Rijkaard en Voeller plaatsvond, dus dat heb ik dan bij dezen rechtgezet.
Morgenavond naar koelere, noordelijker oorden. Terug naar Amman, en de 5e terug naar Beirut. Net op tijd om het voetbalfeest thuis te kunnen beleven!